Into the tunnel. Out of the tunnel. This shabby, never-ending underpass, through which cars crash and clatter, can't be the entrance to a cultural temple where the Royal Shakespeare Company performs, Sir Simon Rattle stands at the conductor's desk, and the works of David Hockney and Isamu Noguchi are exhibited? The approach to London's Barbican Centre is not easy, and when you finally reach the entrance, it looks like the back entrance. Which, as it turns out, it once was. The suppliers still head for the Silk Street side.